Morning Glass, Adventures of a Legendary Waterman, by Mike Doyle

I just finished the above titled book by Mike Doyle, legendary surfer and all around waterman. Doyle was one of the original crowd at Malibu and, as I found out from reading his autobiography, the book and subsequent movie BIG WEDNESDAY (directed by John Milius) were based on Doyle and the other surfers at Malibu during the uncrowded, halcyon days of the late ’50s.

I loved this book. Written in a matter-of-fact, totally non-judgemental voice, Doyle captures the joy of surfing and shares the adventures, triumphs and failures of his life in an honest and inspirational way. I would recommend MORNING GLASS to surfers and non-surfers alike – anyone going through a life crisis will benefit from Doyle’s story. He’s living proof that you can change paths at any point in your life and find happieness and success. A real testiment to ‘follow your bliss and success will follow.’

Unfortunately the book is now out of print and copies are going anywhere from $50 to $200 bucks. I lucked out and found a copy for $20 on, but it was the only one below the $50 price point.

Monday Night

I’m currently sitting on the couch (covered with tarp and quilt to protect from random cat pee-age), watching RETURN OF THE LIVING DEAD and trying to shut my brain off.  All day I’ve been following the fires in San Diego (my home town) and Los Angeles (home for 10 years after leaving the nest) and finally decided to take a break.  I’ve called everyone I can think of who might be in danger, found out they’re either okay or have safely evacuated, have  looked at the updates and maps several dozen times, and still can’t believe it’s really happening.  The fires in ’03 were horrible, but these are nearly biblical in proportion.    It makes ever petty annoyance or stress I’ve had the last few weeks seem trivial.